Articles

Drafts Three starter pieces about dishes on your menu. Edit them, or send your own.

At the table

How to eat khinkali

Pick it up by the topknot, turn it over, and bite a small hole in the side. Drink the broth first. That is the whole trick.

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Then eat the dumpling around the knot. The knot itself is dough folded many times over, and most people leave it on the plate, which also makes it easy to count who ate how many. A little black pepper is all it needs.

At Kusht you can order khinkali boiled or fried, classic or with cheese, from three pieces up.

From the pantry

Ghavurma, meat put away for winter

Before refrigerators, Armenian households cooked meat slowly in autumn and sealed it under its own fat in clay pots. It kept until spring.

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The method survives because of the taste. The meat comes out soft and deeply savoury, and the fat carries it.

We serve ghavurma cold as an appetizer, and warm over fried potatoes.

From the oven

Gata, by the slice or whole

Gata is Armenia's sweet bread. Inside is khoriz, a crumbly filling of butter, flour and sugar. The top is glazed with egg and scored with a pattern.

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Every region shapes it differently, and every family thinks theirs is the right one.

Ours is baked in house, plain or with dried fruit. Have a slice with coffee, or take a whole one home.